OPULENCE, DRAMA
&
PHOTOGRAPHIC DECADENCE
Whimsical allure, stark contrasts and the emotive softness of the human physique. Something irrevocably captured by an artisanal legend one only dreams of witnessing dominate visual culture in their lifetime. Ruvén Afanador’s hypnotic work is an ode to the pilgrimage of a creative forged from endless talent and tenacity. An unrivalled ability to capture the true nature of an ever metamorphosing zeitgeist. Something which has enraptured the creative sphere for decades.
Throckmorton New York Art Gallery | Ruvén Torero Exhibit
A young boy, enveloped by aspiration and natural born talent, simply growing into the artist who has so wholly dominated industry today, had a markedly innovative and inspired start. Born in the remarkable sixteenth century city of Bucaramanga in Colombia, Afanador’s eye for seductive beauty and unexpected detail was clear from an early age. Surrounded by mountainous terrain and nature’s natural opulence and dramatic flare, his youth was one visually dominated by scenery which commanded the senses. An adolescence crafted from tradition and a pious heritage, was filled with the power of spiritual motifs, saints, ceremonies, celebration and pageantry. Afanador’s hunger for the beauty of life was something he wanted to satiate moving forward, ever enchanted by the siren call of the future and unknown.
His upheaval to the hustle and bustle of Michigan at the rather influential age of fourteen was where the legend began his now renowned impact on photography, fashion, and societies perception on what vessels of beauty truly are. Afanador’s talent would be nurtured and launched within the opportunities the Midwest would have to offer, the pivotal moment in the trajectory of his career marked by his divinely guided move to Milan in 1987. A decade brimming with unapologetic flash, suave and seductively loud personality.
Here, his trademark for photographing his subjects in the untamed studio of the outdoors was founded, with the texture, tone and earthy stage of alleyways and streets setting an emotive backdrop for his captivating shots. This ability to command an audience had a humble origin, the result of the harsh reality which was a lack of studio spaces available at the time for many creatives. Clearly, hardship proved to be nothing but an asset to an individual so readily primed for the limelight. As well as discovering his love for nature's natural terrain, Afanador uncovered his desire to capture obscure beauties, famously favouring humanity's unique features, elongated torso’s and necks, the sensual expression of flesh and the free flowing nature of moving and embroidered fabric. His desire to create thought provoking work knowingly stems from his passion for capturing the true essence of people.
“I create an environment for people to realise they are part of a special, creative moment. I love ambiguity and exploring dualities; it makes for arresting images” - Ruvén Afanador
The 90’s soon fell in love with the blossoming star. A creative who had found their niche, and one which the big apple welcomed. Afanador had grown into a seasoned photographer, one with an established and commanding style, specialising in the depth of the human condition and its ability for unique expression. Our universal love affair with the photographic entity however began with the launch of Torero. The photography famously captured matadors from Spain, Mexico, Colombia and Peru in a fashion never seen before. Afanador explored the sensual softness of the flesh, the intimacy of the way in which one self fashions the body, and the power of the dance which is the free flowing and controlled nature of the muleta. The black and white shots displayed the erotic nature of the male form and presence, calling into question the imposed norms of masculine sexuality. His mark on visual literacy only grew with his book Sombra, work which delved into the nude body behind ballet’s art form, and photography which displayed the juxtaposition of strength and softness, through an almost voyeuristic lens of beauty.
Throckmorton New York Art Gallery | Ruvén Torero Exhibit
Mil Besos marked his innate passion for flamenco, along with his attraction to the uncanny. This very passion is something he shares with the enchantress that is Rossy de Palma. Another icon born from the same womb of Spanish disruptors which included composer Manuel de Falla, filmmakers Carlos Saura, Luis Buñuel and Pedro Almodóvar, and many more. Rather cyclically, fellow creative Almodóvar was the very cinematic star who discovered Rossy de Palma, now actress, model, singer and activist, who would go on to have a deep friendship with both fabulous trail blazers. Afanador’s ability to explore the surreal and obscure, along with archetypal deconstruction of society’s rule book, has proven to be a revolutionary voice for the Latinx community. One which has had us all nothing but spellbound.
His time photographing de Palma within Mil Besos. The ‘cubist beauty’, one often referred to as a walking Picasso, and definitely sculpturesque, garnered such a sensory response within the creative community, that it has been discussed whether one is able to hear her voice and feel her vigour through the lens. A living, breathing piece of art for lack of better words. Rossy de Palma, an icon to many, one who enchants those who look upon her, broke industry in the 80’s with her large nose, heterochromic eyes, defined bone structure and fabulous dress, all under the directorial management of Almodóvar of course.
She has famously stated that art for her is:
“A magical place where there is no time, no gender, only freedom. My dream to go into art began at a young age. I started with dance. The reality is that art helps you be resilient and gives you imagination, something that we need a lot in these hardcore, merciless times” - Rossy de Palma
A sentinement made tangible across her forty year career and counting. I believe it is when these very disruptors come together, making a joint impact and comment upon society's generational indoctrination, creating art that so clearly remains unfathomably humanly charged and powerful, that what one has come to know and love gets expanded. Afanador’s work with fellow creatives, as well as the unseen talent across the world made globally visible through his work, is a testament to a young boy who sought to flood society with a rallying call for the true beauties of the world to come forward.
The key takeaway, take up space and seduce all whom you meet.
Rossy de Palma in ‘Mil Besos’: One thousand kisses, Ruvén Afanador
Words by Nadège Elyse Mustafa – MA Fashion Journalism and Editorial Direction student at Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design
AN ICON OF DUALITY & DARING
Rossy de Palma shot by Ruvén Afanador
You might recognise her from George Michael’s 1992 Too Funky music video, the result of an artisanal collaboration with Mugler, or perhaps cult favourite Pedro Almodóvar’s Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown, 1988. The striking icon has reset the industry for many a decade since she burst onto the screens, red carpets and magazines, of the big hair, shoulder padded and sequined shirt of the eighty’s. Forged from the ashes of Post-Francoist Spain, this very decade of her emergence saw de Palma rewrite the so-called ‘norms’ of beauty, style, seduction and stage presence, calling into question the lack of love for the ambiguous in an era which was much less forgiving than the one in which we exist today.
A flamenco enchantress who can sing, perform, dance, model and provide a cultural serving of activism and spokesmanship on the side, is showing no signs of slowing down, and we would not want her to. Markedly named the UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Cultural Diversity on the 17th of October, 2022, and having recently starred in yet another silver screen success, Dear Paris, a comedic, thought provoking flic about life’s bittersweet edge, de Palma remains utterly in command of audiences worldwide. Dominating the beauty isle, she has dabbled many times in the cosmetic realm, having launched her perfume, Eau de Protection under Etat Libre d’Orange in 2009, along with a timeless collaboration with Mac Cosmetics in 2017. Her ability to seductively pop up in her flamboyant and yet timeless manner, splashing colour across the many facets of industry is why we love her. De Palma is always sure to keep us on our toes, never where we left her.
Her early career and time as part of band Peor Impossible, under the stage name Rossy Peor, was in fact where her creative relationship with Pedro Almodóvar blossomed. The notion that she was scouted at random while working in her ‘Rockabilly Bar’ as the tale and or legend goes, is not quite accurate. In fact, Almodovar knew her from her singing days and would come and see her and her band perform. Hence, when he then offered her a role in the film La ley del Deseo, and following this, Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown, it was due to his knowledge of the natural born talent, seemingly hand crafted for the myriad of roles he had in store for her. Always a style icon, her character in La ley del Deseo, was done so in her own wardrobe, a result of Pedro falling in love with her aesthetic from the very beginning. Is there anything quite as lovely as a seasoned industry insider and expert such as Almodóvar, requesting that all you bring to rehearsal and shoot is yourself, in your best shoes of course. Their long time creative partnership and friendship naturally only grew from here. Without it, industry and visual culture would have been vastly robbed.
Her time singing was not only the launchpad to her career, placing the star in the limelight where she belongs, but a beloved part of herself, explored so freely in her youth, ever evolving and growing with her. Markedly, this caught the eye of none other than global Spanish star Rosalía, an international enigma, hugely desiring for de Palma to feature in her song Preso – Ch. 6 La Clausura, as part of her album El Mal Querer. Rosalía I am sure grew up watching de Palma dominate industry since the beginning of her journey, as did we all. What a perfect synergy of Spanish fusions, contemporary and classic, both creatives with a flare for flamenco, uniting for a cohesive hybrid combustion of talent. De Palma’s ability to nurture and grow her childhood gifts, merely extensions of herself, into a legacy, is awe inspiring. Rossy never jumped ship into the fashion world, but rather chose to dazzle us across platforms. Fabulous as ever, de Palma is set to play a fashionista moth in long time friend Jean Paul Gaultier’s new film. A flic that will feature a heady combination of insects and haute couture animations, dominating screens in 2027.
Words by Nadège Elyse Mustafa –MA Fashion Journalism and Editorial Direction student at Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design
9 Times Rossy de Palma Showed Us How It’s Done
Cult icon Rossy de Palma is undoubtedly an individual you either desire to be, or be with. What we do however settle for, is an attempt to mimic the effortless manner in which the fashion messiah, model and actress can command a room, red carpet or high street. De Palma’s luminescence and innate ability to blend persona with fabric, has influenced industry since the 80’s, with her unique fashion sense one of the very reasons she caught the eye of world renowned Pedro Almodóvar . An ode to the icon's awe inspiring style moments is therefore due.
Look 1/9
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 1994
Let’s not forget when she captivated all, utterly owning the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 1994, ‘Les Tatouages’ show. Redefining eclectic hippie chic, it was not just the artisanal craftsmanship of Gaultier, but the manner in which de Palma wore the clothes and commanded the audience with her presence, which made this look transcend and impact industry for decades to come.
Look 2/9
Assad Awad, Valencia Fashion Week 2012
Unpicking societal approaches to women, the body and the fetish, this runway moment saw de Palma don Assad Awad’s famous spin on Raoul Ubac’s, ‘Mannequin dressed by André Masson’, Exposition Internationale du Surréalisme, Galerie Beaux-Arts, Paris, 1937.
Look 3/9
When she wore Schiaparelli and Haute Couture Earrings at the 75th Cannes film festival
You can never go wrong with a pair of statement earrings, a chic updo and a fabulous clutch. All accompanied by a bold block pattern kaftan inspired look in a monochromatic setting, the definition of artful chic.
Look 4/9
When she launched the Chufy x Rossy Collection
That time Rossy collaborated with Sofia Sanchez de Betak to produce an intricately curated show stopping line of vibrant ready-to-wear pieces just in time for Summer. A captivating hybrid of Rossy’s iconic style and the enigmatic passion of Chinese opera was something we did not know we needed, and yet could not do without.
Look 5/9
Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown 1988
In classic cult film favourite, Pedro Almodóvar’s ‘Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown’, 1988, Rossy, the ‘aloof’ aristocratic ‘Marissa’, displayed endless transcendent looks. Most notably, a classic red number, pulled together with a very 80’s profound and eye-catching earring. I know that young ladies everywhere attempted an execution of the casual, effortless and sensual air which was Marissa’s fashion sense, worn so well by de Palma.
Look 6/9
Thierry Mugler Fall 1995
A picture is truly worth a thousand words. Mugler, another designer who adores women with a beauty like no other, of course had to have de Palma don his runways. Tailored to the finest detail, a sculpturesque silhouette encrusted with shimmer and feathers can do no wrong.
Look 7/9
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2015 Couture
A continued ode to her long time friendship with Gaultier, decades down the road de Palma remains a favoured muse, and it is clear why. It seems her ability to own the runway, embody the garment and perform, simply grows with her.
Look 8/9
Rossy de Palma for Vogue Spain | September 2018. Shot by Gorka Postigo and Elena Olay
There is next to nothing de Palma cannot wear without leaving a sea of open mouthed infatuation behind. Any look of hers which harks upon her heritage and inherent flamenco fire is sure to be a jaw-dropping number.
Look 9/9
Rossy de Palma accompanied by Diva Thani and David Moralejo | Condé Nast Traveller Awards 2024
Pretty in pink, the 2024 Condé Nast Traveller Awards saw de Palma donned a gorgeous ensemble, a vivacious and striking look that was both fun and playful. A colour one does not often see the muse in, and yet a colour that fits so well. Bringing a touch of youthful colour to an ever alluring fashionista’s wardrobe, de Palma keeps us on our toes.
Words by Nadège Elyse Mustafa – MA Fashion Journalism and Editorial Direction student at Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design
